Kestrel 05063 Rocket Kit Instruction Manual

Average Skills Needed

The Kestrel is a high performance rocket with extreme flexibility. It soars to high altitudes, breaks the sound barrier, and carries payloads. With its sleek lines and sharp beautiful decals, it is sure to delight. The rocket is ideal for the advanced rocketeer who wants to set personal records. With a long burn G motor, the Kestrel can edge past one mile in altitude. A high-thrust G, on the other hand, will handily push the rocket well past the speed of sound. For the beginning and intermediate rocketeer however, the Kestrel can be easily flown on black powder 29mm motors for reliable flights above the 2000’ mark. This makes the Kestrel an excellent first mid-power rocket for those who desire altitude. The inclusion of the spacious payload bay adds another dimension to the rocket and provides a vehicle which can be used for extensive experimentation. All this comes at a reasonable cost and in a rocket that is quick to build.

Kestrel Parts List

Needed Tools and Materials

• Hobby Knife with Sharp Blades
• Scissors
• Razor Saw
• Wood Glue
• Medium CyA Adhesive
• 5-Minute Epoxy
• Masking Tape
• Sanding Sealer
• Fine Sandpaper (400 grit)
• Fine Point Sharpie Marker
• Aluminum Angle

Optional Tools / Finishing Supplies

• Fin Alignment Guide (P/N 35546)
• Filled Epoxy (for fin fillets) – Like RocketPoxy or FixIt Clay
• Paper Towels
• Spray Paint
• Soapy Water
• Wood Dowel

Assembly Steps:

1. Using a pencil, draw a line along the entire length of the 29mm (1.14”) diameter x 6-1/2” (165mm) long motor mount tube. An aluminum angle is handy here as a guide to ensure that correct alignment is maintained.
   
2. Again with a pencil, make a mark on the line drawn in the last step at 1/4” (6mm) from one end of the motor mount tube (which will now be the front of the motor mount). Add two more marks 7/8” (22mm) and 2-5/16” (59mm) from the aft end of the tube.
   
3. Remove rings A, B, and C from cardstock sheet with hobby knife. Slide ring C (the aft centering ring) onto the motor mount tube, aligning the engraved mark on the ring with the line drawn along the length of the motor mount tube. Make a ring of medium CyA adhesive at the line 7/8” (22mm) from the aft of the tube, and slide the aft centering ring into place.
   
   
4. Cut a 6” section off of the shock cord and set it aside for building the payload bay. Take the remaining piece of Kevlar™ shock cord and tie a knot roughly 1” (25mm) from one end to prepare it for installation.
   
5. Pass the shock cord through ring B (the middle centering ring), then slide the ring onto the motor mount tube making sure that the engraved line is on the lengthwise alignment line drawn in Step 1, and that the shock cord runs through the notch. Make a ring of medium CyA glue at the mark 2-5/16” (59mm) from the aft of the tube and slide the ring into place. Pull the shock cord tight so that the knot rests against ring B.
   
6. Pass the shock cord through ring A (the forward centering ring), then slide the ring onto the motor mount tube. Again ensure that the shock cord runs through the notch in the ring. Make a ring of glue at the mark 1/4” (6mm) from the front of the tube, then align the notch on the centering ring with the line on the motor tube and slide the ring in place.
   
7. Using 5-minute epoxy, glue the 4” all-thread rod into place in the notches with 3/4” (19 mm) of the rod extending aft of the motor mount tube. Apply a fillet of epoxy between the threaded rod and the motor mount tube as well as along the shock cord to ensure a solid attachment. You can then tape the all-thread to hold it in place, and set the motor mount assembly aside for the glue to set.
   
8. The nose cone and boattail used in this kit come as a single piece. To separate the two parts, simply apply pressure between them with a quick bending motion. The nose cone will be used as it is. The transition requires modification for use in the kit.
   
9. To prepare for modifications of the boattail, the slot must be marked. Cut the two boattail marking guides out with scissors and wrap them around the shoulders of the transition. Align both guides with the molding seam on the part and mark as shown using a marker such as a Sharpie. Remove the marking guides, then extend the marks to provide lines along the whole length of the transition and shoulders. The small strip between the lines will be removed shortly to make room for the threaded rod.
   
10. Using a razor saw, remove the entire smaller shoulder by cutting along the small depression right at the joint between the shoulder and the transition. Then remove the loop section of the larger shoulder by cutting at the line. If necessary, sand the ends of the transition with fine sandpaper (400 grit) to smooth any inconsistencies in the cut.
    
11. Carefully cut along the marked lines on the transition using a razor saw to remove the thin strip of plastic. This is easiest if you alternate between the two lines so that you cut partly through one, then cut through the other, and finally, cut the remainder of the way through the first line. Don’t worry too much about how this slot looks as it will be covered by fillets later. The main goal is to create sufficient clearance for the motor retention threaded rod.
    
12. Test fit the modified boattail on the aft end of the motor mount assembly. The motor mount tube should press against the inside aft end of the boattail, while the slot should allow the threaded rod to pass through without distorting the boattail. The inner front end of the boattail (not the shoulder) should rest against the aft centering ring (ring C). Sand the motor mount assembly and the slot until a good fit is achieved.
    
13. Using medium CyA adhesive, glue the boattail onto the motor mount assembly by applying glue to the aft centering ring (ring C) and the inside aft edge of the boattail. Tape the boattail into place and allow the adhesive to harden.
    
14. Cut out the fin marking guide and tape it around the aft body tube. Using a pencil, mark the fin lines, launch lug line, and motor retainer line. Lightly label the marks to minimize confusion later on. Once marked, extend the lines along the length of the tube using an aluminum angle to ensure that the lines are aligned along the body tube.
    
15. Pass the shock cord through the motor mount tube so that it hangs out the back end of the motor mount assembly. Apply two rings of wood glue around the inside of the tube using a dowel at 3/4” (19mm) and 5” (127mm) from the end. Install the motor mount assembly in the main body tube by sliding it all the way into the tube and rotating it so that the threaded rod is aligned with the motor retainer line.
    
16. Take the 6” (150mm) section of shock cord that was cut in step 4 and tie a loop in the middle of it. Pass the loop through the plywood bulkhead and glue the tails to the bulkhead from the back using wood glue.
    
17. Using a pencil, mark the center of the red coupler tube at 1-1/2” (38mm) from either end, then apply a bead of wood glue along the inside edge of one end of the coupler. Install the bulkhead with the loop facing out. The bulkhead should sit about 1/8” (2mm) inside the coupler. Run a bead of wood glue around the coupler/bulkhead joint and form a fillet with a finger. If no fillet forms when the bulkhead is inserted, use a dowel to form a fillet on the joint inside the coupler.
    
18. Apply a large bead of wood glue to the inside of the 9” long payload bay tube 1” (25 mm) deep and insert the coupler assembly up to the marked line with the loop facing out. Allow the payload section to dry
    
19. Before removing the fins from the sheet, sand both sides of the sheet using a fine grit sandpaper (400 grit) and a sanding block to achieve a nice smooth surface.
    
20. Cut the fins out of the sheet using a sharp hobby knife and sand any remnants of tabs off the edges of each fin. The edges of the fin are easiest to sand by hand using a small piece of sandpaper. Optional: To reduce drag for higher or faster flights, the edges of the fins can be either rounded or the fins fully airfoiled
    
21. Pass the shock cord back through the motor mount tube so that it sits inside the main tube. Glue the fins in place along the previously marked lines by applying a bead of wood glue to the bottom edge of the fin. The aft edge of the fin should sit flush with the back edge of the boattail, and the root of the fin will contact both the tube and the boattail without a gap. The fins should be as straight as possible so that the rocket flies straight and high. A fin alignment guide such as the Apogee Components 3-Fin 41.6mm Alignment Guide (P/N 35546) is highly recommended to make perfect fin alignment easy
    
22. Optional: For a slight drag reduction and for the purpose of aesthetics, the forward and aft ends of the launch lug can be beveled. To do so, mark 5/16” (8 mm) from either end of the launch lug then cut the bevels using a razor saw. The cuts can be cleaned up using some fine (400 grit) sandpaper.
    
23. Make a mark on the launch lug line 6-1/2” (165mm) from the aft end of the tube and using wood glue, attach the launch lug to the body tube in front of the line.
    
24. Using 5-minute epoxy or a filled epoxy (such as RocketPoxy), apply fillets to the roots of each fin, around the motor retention rod, and at the base of the launch lug. To create the fillets, apply a bead of epoxy to the joint then form the fillet with the tip of a dowel or a gloved finger.
    
25. To build the 24mm motor adapter, make a ring of wood glue around the outside edge of one end of the 3-3/4” (95mm) 24mm motor tube. Slide one of the large green (24mm to 29mm) centering rings onto the tube so it is flush with the end. This will be the forward end of the adapter.
    
26. Mark the tube 1/2” (13 mm) from the aft end of the tube.
    Make a ring of wood glue just in front of the line and slide the second 24/29 large green centering ring onto the tube, so that it is forward of that mark.
    
27. Cut the thrust ring (ring D) out of the cardstock sheet.
    Make a ring of wood glue just behind the aft centering ringon the motor mount assembly and slide the cardstock ring into place up against the green aft centering ring. Apply a fillet of wood glue to the joint between the thrust ring and the motor tube to ensure that the ring is attached as securely as possible.
    
28. Optional: The engine block is installed if only Estes motors are going to be used. If the engine block is used, no thrust ring needs to be added to the motor. If extra-long reloads from Aerotech and Cesaroni are going to be used too, the engine block can be left out. To install the engine block, glue the small green 18mm to 24mm centering ring in the forward end of the adapter, flush with the end. Assembled with the motor block installed, the adapter can be used directly with 95mm long motors or it can use 70mm motors with a spacer.
    
29. Using scissors or a sharp hobby knife, cut out the parachute along the middle line to trim it to 15” (381mm) in diameter. Once cut, place the reinforcement rings at each corner as marked, then puncture the center hole using a pencil or hobby knife.
    
30. Cut the white string into three equal sections as shown.
    These are the shroud lines for the parachute. Tie the shroud lines through the reinforcement rings and around the outside of the parachute as shown. Apply a small dab of glue to each of the knots and allow that glue time to dry before installing it in the rocket.
    
31. Tie the shock cord to the loop on the payload section and wrap a small piece of tape around the remaining tail and main cord to prevent the knot from coming loose. Then, collect the three shroud lines from the parachute, pass them through the loop on the end of the payload bay, and pull the parachute back through the loop created by the ends, pulling the knot tight. At this point the shock cord and parachute can be placed inside the rocket and the nose cone slid on.
    
32. Allow the glue to harden entirely before applying paint to the rocket. For the absolute best finish, it is important to apply primer. Priming is a two step process. The first step is to spray a thick coat of a filling sand able primer on the rocket and allow it to dry. Using fine sandpaper (400 grit), sand most of the primer off, leaving it only in the deeper surface imperfections. Further heavy coats of primer can be applied and sanded off to completely fill such surface imperfections. The second step is to apply a thin coat of primer, and once it has dried, to lightly sand the surface so that the rocket is covered by a thin uniform coat. After surface preparation is complete, spray the rocket  with a coat of the desired color of paint following the paint manufacturer’s directions.
    
33. Allow the final coat of paint to dry at least 24 hours before applying the vinyl decals so that the paint isn’t damaged. Remove each decal from the paper backing and apply soapy water to the back of them so that the decal slides easily on the surface of the painted rocket. If the decal begins to dry before it is correctly positioned, a little water can be added to the surface. Position the decals on the rocket and once they are in the correct location, press them down firmly and squeegee out any water underneath them. Once they dry entirely, the soapy water will not affect the adhesion of the decals on the rocket.
    

Launch Supplies Needed

To launch your rocket you will need:

• A launch pad with a 1/4” (6mm) launch rod and a launchcontroller that can handle the selected igniters
• Recovery Wadding
• Engines such as those recommended in the motor chart.

Additional motors can be viewed at: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Model-Rocket-Kits/Skill-Level-3-ModelRocket-Kits/Kestrel#motors

Suggested Motors

A. Crumple and insert 3 or 4 sheets of recovery wadding into the main tube, then push the wadding down to the bottom with a dowel.

B. Fold the parachute so that the shroud lines all come together, then place the shroud lines onto the parachute in a loop and fold the parachute in half long ways to surround the shroud lines. Fold the parachute again – this time the other way – to shorten the whole package.

C. Loosely fold the shock cord and insert it into the body tube, followed by the folded parachute, and the payload section. Ensure that the nose cone fits tightly into the payload tube to avoid losing the nose cone in flight. Wrap the nose cone shoulder with tape if necessary to achieve a tight enough fit.

D. Optional: If using a motor without a thrust ring, such as an Estes motor, wrap the back ¼” (6mm) of the motor with several wraps of masking tape then trim the extra tape to create a thrust ring to prevent the motor from sliding up into the rocket.

E. Optional: If using the motor adapter, slide the motor into the adapter then apply tape around the motor/motor tube connection to retain the motor.

F. Install the motor (or motor in adapter) by sliding it into the motor mount tube. Slide the washer into place on the threaded rod, then screw the nut into place to retain the motor against the ejection charge firing.

G. Insert and secure the igniter as directed by the motor’s manufacturer. To improve the chances of the rocket motor igniting correctly the first time, ensure that the igniter has been inserted all the way and is in contact with the propellant.

Continue to follow the countdown and launch procedures.

Countdown and Launch Procedure

The Kestrel is a rocket designed for high speeds and high altitudes and – as such – it requires a large field to fly on typical motors. With a 24mm motor in the included adapter, it can be flown on smaller fields. The first flight should be done in light winds and with a motor in the middle of the recommended range. The smallest safe motor is rarely a good “first-flight” motor, nor is the largest possible motor a good place to start. Regardless of the motor selected, the area around the launch pad should be free from dry grass and other fire hazards, and the pad should be as far from trees, powerlines and low-flying planes as possible.

1. Remove the safety key from the launch controller if it has been stored there.
2. Place the rocket on the launch pad. The rocket should slide freely along the rod.
3. Attach the clips to the igniter wires. The clips must not touch either each other or the metal blast deflector. Otherwise, a misfire is likely.
4. Stand back from the rocket as far as the launch wire allows.
5. Insert the safety key to arm the launch system.
6. Give a loud countdown! 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… LAUNCH!
7. Press and hold the button until the engine ignites. Once the rocket is away, remove the safety key

Misfire Procedure

A misfire is when an engine does not light after the launch button is pressed. This is sometimes a result of the igniter burning but failing to light the engine. At other times, the igniter will not burn at all (this is often indicative of a short between the clips).
To deal with a misfire safely, remove the safety key from the launch controller and wait a full minute (60 seconds) prior to approaching the pad. Check that the igniter wires or clips were not touching and causing a short. If they were, the short can be corrected and a launch attempted again. If the engine simply failed to light, remove the old igniter and install a new one. Make sure that the igniter is installed all the way into the engine and that it is in contact with the propellant. Always follow the NAR (National Association of Rocketry) Model Rocket Safety Code when launching model rockets.