Lanzar EV254 Car Power Amplifier Input Power Supply
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of a Lanzar EVOLUTION amplifier. You have purchased a quality product designed and engineered to give you many years of uncompromised musical service. EVOLUTION amplifiers are designed with the latest technology available, incorporating a DC to DC Switching Power Supply, which provides headroom for even the most demanding peaks and dynamic ranges found on modern CD’s and recordings.Features
- MOSFET switches maintain rated power over a wide range of battery voltages
- 2 Ohm Stable Stereo operation
- Variable input level controls for each pair of channels
- Variable high and low pass crossover controls
- Thermal and speaker short protection circuitry
- Power and Protection LED indicators
- Bass Boost Circuitry
- Stereo, Bridge Mode and Tri-Mode System Application Compatible
- Nickel plated power, RCA and speaker connectors
- High-efficiency, heavy aluminum heatsink
- PWM(Pulse-Width-Modulated) System
- Bass Boost Remote control
Features AND CONTROLS
- Input RCA Jacks – These inputs are for signal cables from the source. Always use high quality shielded RCA cables.
- Line Out RCA Jacks – The LINE OUT allows you to build multiple amplifier systems with out having to use splitter cords to distribute the signal. Now it is simple a matter of bringing one set of RCAs into the first amplifier, then using the line out RCA jacks as the feed to the next amplifier.
- Level Control- Enables the matching of input levels to the output levels from the head unit(or other signal source).
- Phase Shift control – Allows you to change the phase of your subwoofer from 0 to 180 degrees to help compensate for timing differences between drivers.
- Variable Low Pass Filter- When Crossover Mode Selector is in Low Pass Mode, this control limits the frequencies which will be distributed to the speakers to those below the value to which this is set within the range 50~500Hz. (MONO AND EV594 SUB@1CH,WITHIN THE RANEG 50 – 250Hz.)
- Variable High Pass Filter- When Crossover Mode Selector is in High Pass Mode, this control limits the frequencies which will be distributed to the speakers to those below the value to which this is set within the range 50~500Hz. (THIS IS MONO AMP SUBSONIC FILTER WITHIN THE RANGE 15 – 45Hz)
- Bridged Mode
- Bass Boost Remote Control Input
- Power & Protection Indicators- Provide instant information on status of amplifier, including short-circuit and thermal overload alerts
- Variable Bass Boost Control- 0~18dB @ 60Hz FIX.
- High Inputs- Accepts speaker level inputs from head units that do not line level (RCA) outputs.
- Crossover mode selector – Determines the mode of built-in crossover: low pass(permits only low frequency signals to pass to speakers), high pass(permits only high frequency signals to pass to speakers),or flat.
- Speaker Temimal.
SPECIFICATION
MODEL: EV484 RMS at 4 Ohms: 500W x 4 Peak at 4 Ohms: 1000W x 4 RMS at 4 Ohm Bridged: 1000W x 2 Peak at 4 Ohm Bridged: 2000W x 2 Low Pass Filter: 50Hz~500Hz High Pass Filter: 50Hz~500Hz Bass Boost Control: 0 – 18dB @ 60Hz FIX Input Sensitivity: Low:200mV~6V High:400mV ~12V T.H.D: <0.05% S/N Ratio: >100dB Channel Separation: >60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz~40KHz Fuse(s): 40Ax3 Dimensions:WxHxL(inches): 8.97″ x 2..41″ x 17.16″INSTALLATION
- Find a suitable location in the vehicle to mount the amplifier.
- Make sure there is sufficient air flow around the intended mounting location.
- Bolt the amplifier to the mounting surface.
- Connect the power ground terminal to the nearest point on the chassis of the car. Keep this ground wire less than one meter (39″) in length. Use 8 gauge wire.
- Connect the remote terminal to the remote output of the head unit using 14 gauge wire.
- Connect an empty fuse holder within 300 mm (12″) of the battery and run 8 gauge or larger high quality cable from this fuse to the amplifier location.
- Make sure there is no fuse in this fuse holder. Then make the connection to the “BATI” connection on the amplifier.
- If multiple amplifiers are being used, use cables ( each with its own fuse at the battery) or a #o or #2 cable from the fuse holder at the battery to a distribution block at or near the amplifier’s location.
- Connect all line inputs and outputs using high-quality RCA-RCA cables.
- Insert fuse(s) at the battery fuse holder(s ).
- Recheck all connections before powering up.
- Set all level controls to their least sensitive positions and set all crossover controls, switches, etc. to the desired frequency or position.
- Once the system is powered up, set the volume control on the head unit to about the 2 o’clock position, and then set all the amplifiers’ level controls for maximum output level.
- Further fine tuning of the various controls may be necessary to obtain the desired results.
SYSTEM WIRING
2-CHANNEL STEREO CONFIGURATION FRONT /REAR
2-CHANNEL BRIDGED MODE CONFIGURATION FRONT /REAR
2-CHANNEL TRI-MODE CONFIGURATION FRONT /REAR
TROUBLESHOOTING
- THE AMPLIFIER WILL NOT POWER UP.
- Check for good ground connection.
- Check that remote DC terminal has at least 3v DC.
- Check that there is battery power on the + terminal.
- Check all fuses.
- Check that Protection LED is not lit. If it is lit, shut off amplifier briefly and then repower it.
- HIGH HISS OR ENGINE NOISE (ALTERNATOR WHINE) IN SPEAKERS.
- Disconnect all RCA inputs to the amplifier(s) – if hiss/noise disappears, then plug in the component driving the amplifier and unplug its inputs. If hiss/noise disappears, go on until the faulty/noisy component is found.
- It is best to set the amplifier’s input level as low as possible. The best subjective 8/N ratio is obtainable this way. Try to drive as high a signal level from the head unit as possible.
- PROTECTION LED COMES ON WHEN THE AMPLIFIER 15 POWERED UP.
- Check for shorts on speaker leads.
- Check that the volume control on the head unit is turned down low.
- Remove speaker leads, and reset the amplifier. If the Protection LED still comes on, then the amplifier is faulty.
- AMPLIFIER(S) GETS VERY HOT.
- Check that the minimum speaker impedance for that model is correct.
- Check for speaker shorts.
- Check that there is good airflow around the amplifier. In some applications, an external cooling fan may be required.
- DISTORTED SOUND
- Check that the Level control(s) is set to match the signal level of the head unit.
- Check that all crossover frequencies have been properly set.
- Check for shorts on the speaker leads.
- HIGH SQUEAL NOISE FROM SPEAKERS.
- This is almost always caused by a poorly-grounded RCA patch cord.
FAQS
A typical car amplifier requires anywhere from 10-30 amps. (You can check how much amperage you need by looking at the fuses usually located close to the inputs on your amplifier.)
All power supplies have a power input connection, which receives energy in the form of electric current from a source, and one or more power output or rail connections that deliver current to the load.
A linear regulator has about the same input current as output current. So whatever current your load consumes, the linear regulator will consume the same current from the power supply. From this, it’s rather easy to calculate power with P = U*I.
First, power supplies have two amp ratings: continuous and maximum. The continuous rating is usually the number that you want to look for. Also consider the load. If a power supply is under a constant load that is close to its maximum, you’ll generate more heat, and that can shorten the life of the unit.
As the article states, you do want to match voltages between the power supply and device, but you can us a power supply with more amps than needed. The device will only draw as much current (Amps) as it needs at the time
A typical stereo head unit will need about 5 amps of power. If you want to crank up the volume for parties and plan on using a powerful amplifier, then 5 amps likely won’t be enough either. We do have power supplies available that offer up to 30 amps.
For standard 4-ohm speakers, it takes a peak-to-peak voltage of almost 60 volts to deliver about 100 watts to your speaker. In most amplifiers, this voltage is configured as +30V and -30V, relative to the ground reference voltage of your vehicle chassis
Most probably NO. Safe operating voltage of a car amplifier is 12 – 14.4 V DC. If you have a multimeter, just start the car (where the amplifier was installed), and measure the voltage of the alternator by connecting multimeter across the car battery keeping engine in running condition
Running out of power, you’ll find that your amplifier is going into clipping and producing higher distortion levels when it gets at its limits, if this happens before you get loud enough, you don’t have enough power
Kinda unsure on your first question but on your second one it’s only the amp no wire kit included so you have to but that separate just make sure u get a good kit
It does come with the high level inputs and bass knob.
yes it has full range capabilities
The power amp input connection feeds the unit’s internal amplifier, which in turn drives any speakers that may be connected (either internal or external). In most cases, a power amp input is found complementing a preamp output – the two connections, when used together, form a simple effects loop.
You can buy a computer power supply from an electronics store or online. Check the specifications on your car amplifier to see if it requires a different voltage or amperage input.
Whether solid-state, tube-based or digital, audio amplifiers are designed to increase an input audio signal’s amplitude (voltage, current or power). Since energy cannot be created, power supplies are required for the amp to increase said amplitudes. Amps/preamps and their power supplies are important
