Jalie 4237 Fiona Raglan Sleeve Leotards Instructions

4237 FIONA Raglan Sleeve Leotards
Instruction manual

4237 FIONA Raglan Sleeve Leotards

SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED IN THE PATTERN 
HOW TO PICK YOUR JALIE SIZE

• Use the size corresponding to the bust measurement for the bodice, to the hips for the briefs
• Lengthen / shorten to match the size that corresponds to your torso measurement.

UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED

• Sew this garment 6 mm (¼’’) from edge.
• Pieces are assembled right sides together.

PATTERN PIECES

MARQUEZ LES CENTRES (PLIURES) AVEC UN MARQUEUR OU UNE PETITE ENCOCHE SUR LES PIÈCES A, D, G, H, I et J
MARK CENTERS (FABRIC FOLD) WITH A MARK OR TINY CLIPON PIECES A, D, G, H, I and J

A – FRONT VIEWS A AND B
Join A1 and A2 before cutting Cut 1 on fold
B – BACK VIEWS A AND B
Join B1 and B2 before cutting Cut 2
C – MANCHE VIEWS A AND B
Join C1 and C2 before cutting Cut 2
D – FRONT VIEW C
Join D1 and D2 before cutting
Cut 1 on fold
E – BACK VIEW C
Join E1 and E2 before cutting
Cut 2
F – SLEEVE VIEW C
Join F1 and F2 before cutting
Cut 2
G – BRIEFS FRONT
Cut on fold
1 fabric +1 lining (optional)
H – BRIEFS BACK
Cut on fold
1 fabric +1 lining (optional)
I – COLLAR VIEW A
Cut 1 on fold
J – NECK BINDING VIEW B
Cut 1 on fold

SEWING THE GARMENT

RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC
WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC

JALIE SEWING TECHNIQUE FOR STRETCH FABRICS
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SERGER, USE THIS TECHNIQUE ON SEAMS THAT WILL NEED TO STRETCH

• First stitch: Wide zigzag stitch along the edge of the fabric (“zig” on the fabric, “zag” in the air), without stretching the fabric (1). *This stitch will not be shown in the illustrations*
• Second stitch: Straight stitch 6 mm (¼’’) from edge, stretching the fabric gently (2) to preserve the seams’ elasticity.

BEFORE CUTTING THE FABRIC

• Tape parts 1 and 2 of your front, back and sleeve pieces together (3 for views A and B, 4 for view C).
• Use the assembled pieces to cut the fabric.

ASSEMBLY (ALL VIEWS)

• Pin sleeves to front, matching single notches, and stitch (5-6).
• Pin back pieces to sleeves, matching double notches, and stitch (7).
• Make sure the center is clearly marked at front neckline (8).
• View A: Go to step 9
• View B: Go to step 11
• View C: Go to step 27

COLLAR (VIEW A)

• Fold collar piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching center marks (9).
• Pin folded collar to right side of the neckline, raw edges together and matching center marks. Stitch, stretching the collar as you sew to fit the neckline (10). Go to step 16.
  

NECK BINDING (VIEW B)

• Make sure center is clearly marked on the binding piece (J) (11).
• Pin RIGHT SIDE of binding to WRONG SIDE of neckline, matching centers. Stitch 6 mm (1/4’’) from edge, stretching the BAND (not the neckline) as you sew (12).
• Fold the binding to the wrong side so that raw edges meets and press (13).
• Bring folded binding over the right side of the neckline, pin (14). You fold where the raw edges meet.
• Check the width of the folded binding to make sure it is as even as possible (adjust if needed) and topstich with a cover stitch, double needle or zigzag (15).
  

ZIPPER AT CENTER BACK (VIEWS A AND B)

• Align the zipper stop with the fi nished edge of your neckline (16 – View A, 17 – View B) and transfer the double notch location onto the wrong side and right side of the zipper.
• Pin the open zipper to the back pieces, right sides together, and baste with a long and wide zigzag (18).
• Sew the invisible zipper using a zipper foot, unfolding the coil as you sew to stitch as close to the coil as possible (19). Stop stitching at the notch.
• With the back pieces right sides together, stitch the remaining section of the seam, starting where your zipper stitch ends, all the way to the bottom, 1 cm (3/8’’) from edge (20)
• With the zipper still on the outside of the garment, fold the excess zipper tape over the fi nished edge (21-22).
• Bring the zipper towards the wrong side of the garment, hiding the folded edge in the corner, and handstitch in place (23 – View A, 24 – View B).
• The folded tape should not be visible from the outside of the garment (25 – View A, 26 – View B).
  

CENTER BACK (VIEW C)

• Pin back pieces together, matching double notches, and stitch 1 cm (3/8’’) from edge (27).

ASSEMBLY (ALL VIEWS)

• Pin at side and underarm seams, matching notches and seams, and stitch (28-29-30).
• Pin briefs front to back, at sides and crotch seams and stitch (31). Repeat for lining (optional).
• For lined briefs: Pin carefully lining to main fabric, wrong sides together, matching centers (waist opening) and seams. Baste with a zigzag (32).
• Divide openings into fourths with pins (33).
• Overlap elastic ends by 1 cm (⅜’’) and stitch to form a loop (34) and divide into fourths with pins (35).
• Pin elastic to wrong side of opening, matching pins (36).

• Edge stitch using a zigzag stitch, and stretching the elastic between the pins to lay fl at against the fabric (37).
• Fold sewn elastic to wrong side of fabric, stitch over the fi rst zigzag, stretching the elastic fl at as you sew (38).
• Insert briefs into the bodice to pin waist edges right sides together, matching side seams, centers, and notches (39). Stitch (40).
• Views A/B: Cut excess zipper (fi g. 41) and wrap the end of the zipper with a small piece of fabric (fi g. 42).
  

ELASTIC LENGTHS

MESURES FINIES – FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

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